The new alternatives to Botox
Olivia Falcon explores a number of treatments that claim noticeable results for younger-looking skin
Cosmetic clinics are offering patients ever more sophisticated ways to rejuvenate face and body with a new wave of injectable tweakments that claim to smooth wrinkles, brighten tired eyes, contour the jaw, minimise bulldog flaps around the mouth and even tighten bingo wings.
The mermaid hair booster
PhilArt Hair (from £1,500 per treatment), which launches this month after 20 years of research, is an injectable gel that contains purified polynucleotides (the basic units that make up DNA) sourced from farmed fish. They actively work on the scalp to stimulate specific receptors on fibroblast cells, increasing their production of collagen, elastin and their ability to reduce free radicals in the dermis (the product was developed by a consortium of eminent clinicians and scientists in Italy, with these claims backed up with peer-reviewed scientific studies). PhilArt Hair polyneucleotides are active in the scalp for 30 minutes and increase by 50 per cent the viability of fibroblasts, which are the fundamental supporting cells within the dermis, and through a paracrine mechanism stimulate the hair follicle. The protocol involves weekly injections to the crown of the head or the hairline for the first month, followed by top-up treatments once every fortnight. The procedure takes ten minutes and can sting, but the results are dramatic; expect to see a reduction in hair loss, reduced grey hair, an increase in viable hair follicles and a significant increase to anagen (new hair) versus telogen (dormant hair) follicles by 15-20 per cent per course of treatment. Peak swish is usually experienced four months post-treatment. It’s also good to note PhilArt Hair promises to help patients with male pattern baldness and perimenopausal hair loss.
amaesthetics.clinic
The tired-eye rejuvenator
Restylane Eyelight (£500) is a hyaluronic acid-based filler designed to treat the tear trough area to alleviate under-eye shadows and hollowing. The molecular structure of this product is not as hydrophilic as other brands, meaning it does not attract as much water to area in which it is placed. Dr Munir Somji of the DrMedispa clinics claims that this reduces the risk of post-procedure swelling and the unattractive blue/grey shadowing under the eyes that is caused by light reflection of filler placed too close to the surface of the skin. Eyelight also has a high G-prime (meaning it is quite rigid), which means you can target the product without it migrating, which can create unsightly sausage-like pouches on the top of the cheeks.
drmedispa.com
The antidote to filler
With over-filled lips and puffy cheeks regularly ridiculed on social media feeds, the backlash against filler treatments has reached peak frenzy in what doctors are calling the “hyaluronidase craze”. Hyaluronidase is an injectable enzyme that breaks down and dissolves hyaluronic acid filler and it is proving very handy for correcting unorthodox lip filler treatment. Before hyaluronidase is injected, the doctor scans the patient’s face with a portable ultrasound device to identify where the rogue filler is lurking. A patch test of hyaluronidase (behind the ear or on the arm) is recommended as just under 1 per cent of all patients could have an adverse reaction that can range from excessive skin flushing to anaphylactic shock. Those that cannot use hyaluronidase might try Topilase (£450), a topical cream that contains an enzymatic complex of lipase and protease, and that mimics the effects of hyaluronidase, in addition to natural ingredients known for their soothing and repairing effects: aloe vera, lavender and myrrh, which can be topically applied onto skin.
harrisclinic.co.uk; drmedispa.com
The smart filler
Revanesse (from £300) is a hyaluronic acid-based filler range that experts love for its versatility and ability to put the stuffing back into saggy areas of the face. Revanesse Contour works well for sculpting jawlines, cheeks and chins. “It gives architecture and shape without bulkiness or the tell-tale thick ledge,” says nurse practitioner Sharon Bennett. The formula also goes through a clinical “washing” for one week, so any impurities such as BDEE (the glue that keeps the hyaluronic acid particles stuck together, which in large numbers can be toxic) are removed. Unlike other filler brands whose formulas feature jagged particles, Revanesse particles are perfectly spherical, and smooth particles uniformly break down in skin tissue giving the patient a less inflammatory procedure. The particles are also hydrated during manufacture, so like wet sponges they are injected into skin tissue at their true size, meaning a decreased risk of unwanted puffiness.
harrogateasethetics.co.uk
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The wrinkle relaxer
The first signs of ageing often manifest between the eyebrows with “11” lines. To smooth unsightly furrows, step forward Nuceiva (from £235), a treatment that’s new to the UK but has been popular in the US since 2019. Having trialled it myself in Florida (where it is known as Jeuveau), I can report it is worth considering as an alternative to Botox. Why? The smoothing effects kick in faster (two to three days rather than two weeks), it lasts marginally longer (about four months, rather than three), and also I did not experience any of that headachey heaviness one often gets with other neurotoxin brands. Nuceiva is injected deep into the muscle, with a more precise field of effect. This means that some movement is maintained, avoiding that waxy, frozen look.
medizen.co.uk
The jaw and cheek sharpener
Injected into the lower part of the face, HArmonyCA (from £650) is a new hybrid filler that can improve the look of sagging skin. It combines hyaluronic acid, which helps to volumise hollow areas around the cheeks and jaw by attracting moisture to the upper layers of the dermis, with calcium hydroxyapatite, a mineral form of calcium that can stimulate the production of new collagen, gradually lifting and tightening the skin. It claims to result in sharper jowls and cheekbones and the smoothing of bulldog folds around the mouth. It should last for up to 24 months.
illuminateskinclinic.co.uk
The eye brightener
Tackling dark circles and puffy eyelids, Light Eyes Ultra (£300 per session) is a cocktail of hyaluronic acid, argireline (a biopeptide that works in a similar way to Botox to reduce wrinkle depth caused by muscle contraction), beetroot, rosemary and berry extracts that are said to improve circulation to give a less shadowy appearance under eyes. It is applied to the delicate eyelid area with mesotherapy, a technique involving lots of tiny injections using the finest of needles, so it’s possible (but unlikely) that mild bruising and swelling might occur. For best results three sessions are recommended, two weeks apart, and the effects are expected to last about six months.
drdavidjack.com
The biohack for younger skin
Nucleofill (from £650) is a type of skin booster that contains polynucleotide chains, which are tiny parts of DNA and RNA that have the ability to attract and bind water molecules from the extracellular matrix (the epidermal base membrane) and can provide deep and long-lasting hydration. The polynucleotides also help to rebuild skin cells by communicating with fibroblast receptors. This process initiates the formation of type I collagen and elastin, as well as stimulating the activity of the fibroblasts that are in the resting stage. As a consequence, skin elasticity can improve. The product, which is delivered with multiple injections across the face, also activates new collagen networks and therefore can helpto rejuvenate crepey eyes. Be prepared for a few days’ downtime, as temporary blisters, mild swelling and bruising may occur. Patients usually need two treatments, four to six weeks apart, and it takes a couple of months to kick in, but results should last about a year.
harpendenskinclinic.com
The body reshaper
Promising to improve the look of cellulite while also reshaping and contouring large areas of the body, LanLuma(£1,500) is an injectable that can be used to treat the upper arms, hips, thighs, hands, decolletage and buttocks. Made from poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA), the same material used in dissolvable stitches, it works to reinforce sagging skin from within by stimulating collagen and fibroblast production, the PLLA becoming enmeshed in the tissues where it can strengthen and plump weak collagen fibres. The injected filler is gradually absorbed by the body, so the results take a few months to optimise.
drsebagh.com/clinic
