Peru travel guide

What to do, where to stay and why you'll love it

Why you’ll love it

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Multiple civilisations have left their mark on this country where waves crash against desert coastlines, rare creatures thrive in dense jungles and ancient towns and temples tuck into the folds of mountain ranges. Overwhelming in scope, the choice of activities could fill multiple itineraries.

Most people come for the heart-thumpingly beautiful Machu Picchu, a mysterious lost city rising to the heavens. But the entire country is studded with ruins, sacrificial sites and religious masterpieces — some thousands of years old. Mummies have been unearthed on volcanic slopes, shrines uncovered in remote ravines and rock art unveiled beneath dense forest canopies.

Peru’s past still thrives in its present with indigenous communities reverencing a traditional way of life. In the mountains, Quechua women weave fine fabrics, dyed naturally with potions created by crushing herbs and insects, and farmers cultivate more than 3,000 varieties of potato on terraces constructed centuries ago. Then there are the grand religious parades and colour-popping festivals where extravagant costumes add to the pizzazz.

Nature’s show is equally entertaining. Rainforests thrive with a dazzling array of primates, birds and reptiles, while the coastline is regularly visited by some of the mightiest marine mammals. Ever-changing landscapes can be explored on foot, bus, road or train and options are available for every budget.

Main photo: Indigenous Quechua women on an ancient Inca wall in Chincheros near Cuzco, Peru (Alamy)

Peru’s past still thrives in its present with indigenous communities reverencing a traditional way of life

What to do

A lost citadel hovering in the clouds, Machu Picchu* is the Inca’s sprawling, sky-high summer retreat and one of the greatest spectacles in South America. To visit Machu Picchu requires some planning: morning or afternoon tickets must be purchased in advance, along with hikes up either of the two climbable mountains surrounding the archaeological site. The most popular is the sheer-sided Huayna Picchu: a daredevil ascent commanding outstanding views.

A combination of terraces, temples and homes, the site is vast and should ideally be visited with an official guide who can cherry-pick the top spots. Another option is to take on the Inca Trail*, a four-day high-altitude trek through the scenic Sacred Valley following an ancient route used by pilgrims. Arrive at the Sun Gate as dawn breaks over the 15th-century ruins.

Traces of much older civilisations can be found all over the country, including the 2,000-year-old Nazca Lines in the Ica region. Depicting different animals, the collection of geoglyphs was formed by creating depressions in the desert floor and is best observed from the air; a cheaper option is to scale the 13-metre observation tower.

Not every treasure in Peru is man-made. Further south, the Colca Canyon* is a hiking paradise of Andean peaks soaring from terraced valleys. Condors glide on thermals above the second-deepest canyon in the world, where ancient tombs are tucked into crevices and elderly women still drag vegetable-laden donkeys to market.

Even more indigenous culture can be experienced around Lake Titicaca*, a body of shimmering water almost 4,000m above sea level, shared with Bolivia. Experience alternative living on the floating Uros islands, made from reeds, or witness one of the many buzzing festivals in nearby city Puno.

Wildlife encounters are plentiful in the rainforest regions of Iquitos* in the north and Tambopata in the southeast. Take a boat trip along the river to spot rainbow-hued macaws, playful river otters and agile, tree-swinging spider monkeys. For larger marine mammal encounters, watch whales along the Pacific coast from July to October; most tours depart from Mencora in the north. Further south, the Ballestas Islands* are home to Humboldt penguins and a sea lion colony.

Where to stay

A superb selection of spa retreats and lodges have sprung up around the Sacred Valley*, the gateway route to Machu Picchu. Most visitors choose to stay in Cuzco*, a cloud-tickling Andean town which was once the Incan capital. A combination of temple ruins and ostentatious Catholic churches chart Peru’s tumultuous history, while converted monasteries and terraced guest houses provide a pleasant place to sip coca tea and acclimatise to high altitudes. Rainbow Mountain, the multicoloured Instagram hit, can be ticked off on a day trip from here.

Set in a deep gorge, Aguas Calientes* is the closest spot to Machu Picchu but has a more limited choice of places to stay, including a couple of high-end lodges and a few hostels. Most people prefer to take a day trip by train.

Further south, Arequipa city* brings a mix of boutique and affordable hotels, making it a good base for exploring the area. But to really experience the Colca Canyon — still a three-and-a-half-hour drive away — it’s better to book into one of the mountain area’s eco lodges. The luxury Belmond train operating from Cuzco offers an opportunity to see the rustic area in style and includes a stop at Lake Titicaca.

Tree houses, open-air cabins and floating hotels make up the surprisingly good selection of eco-stay options in the rainforest; most include all transfers, activities and food as a package.

Although it’s tempting to bypass major cities, be sure to spend some time in the capital Lima. Some of the world’s best Latin restaurants have shaped an experimental food scene mixing seafood staples such as ceviche with heavier Andean fare, Japanese influence and oddities foraged from Peru’s varying climates of sea, jungle and mountain.

A combination of temple ruins and ostentatious Catholic churches chart Peru’s tumultuous history

Don’t miss

Few of those who travel to Peru ever make it north, but they should: there are plenty of archaeological sites and protected wildlife areas to explore. Although there have been improvements to the infrastructure in recent years, the pace of travel is still slow — meaning fewer crowds and cheaper prices. Occupied by the Chachapoyas, a civilisation pre-dating the Incas, Kuelap Fortress is an imagination-bending blend of steep walls and well-preserved ruins. Also in the Amazonas region are the Sarcofagos de Karajia, a line-up of macabre funerary statues, and the Revash Mausoleum, a burial complex carved into the rock.

When to visit

Although nights can be chilly, sunny days and clear skies between May and October make the dry season ideal for trekking through the Sacred Valley and the Andes. Birders may want to brave the wet season (November to April) in Tambopata.

FAQs

How many days should I spend in Peru?
It’s impossible to explore the country in one visit so focus on one area. A five-day trip could comfortably cover Lima, the Sacred Valley, Cuzco and Machu Picchu. Double your days to include Lake Titicaca, Colca Canyon and Arequipa, which work well as a southern circuit. The northern sector is less connected and requires more time.

Which part of Peru is the best?
First-timers will always want to see Machu Picchu. Irrespective of the crowds, it’s still a mesmerising sight. But don’t skip over the Sacred Valley. Snowy peaks, fertile valleys and clear, gushing streams provide a backdrop for many relaxing retreats, where it’s worth spending a few days to appreciate why the Incas revered this region.

How can I avoid altitude sickness?
Travelling from sea level to the top of the Andes is a recipe for altitude sickness. Take everything slowly, drink plenty of water and set aside a few days to acclimatise in a destination before attempting any hikes. The Quechua people swear by coca tea, served in most hotels and restaurants.

Currency Peruvian sol

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Inspired to visit Peru but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Expedia* and British Airways*.

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