Chile travel guide

What to do, where to stay and why you’ll love it

Why you’ll love it

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Trailing to the toe of South America, long, spindly Chile covers a spectrum of climates ranging from the parched deserts of Atacama in the far north to the frozen depths of Tierra del Fuego in the south.

Bordered by the Andes, the world’s longest country also provides some of our planet’s most extreme landscapes. Volcanoes, glaciers, forests, vineyards and crystalline lakes combine to create spectacularly diverse scenery.

Communities form an important part of the picture too. A European influence is obvious in the art and architecture of dynamic cities such as Santiago and Valparaiso. But it’s possible to find evidence of indigenous cultures: central Chile has been occupied by the Mapuche for thousands of years and descendants of Easter Island’s Polynesian Rapa Nui continue to live an isolated life on the mainland.

Main photo: Moai statues, Ahu Tongariki, Easter Island (Alamy)

What to do

Natural wonders dominate Chile and there are more than 100 protected spaces. The most popular is Torres del Paine National Park*, an adventurer’s delight of iridescent lakes, hanging glaciers and dwarf forests, dominated by serrated granite peaks. Every year, ambitious climbers attempt to scale the park’s treacherous towers, while amateur hikers are equally rewarded with stirring views from the park’s network of trails. The most popular route is the W*, which can be completed in full in four days or in sections. To preserve the environment all visitors must keep to designated paths.

But walking isn’t the only attraction in the park. Several local operators offer excursions by bike or kayak, covering areas with lower footfall. For wildlife, the Sarmiento hillside is a popular hideout for pumas, who come to hunt guanacos or give birth in the caves.

In the Atacama Desert, mineral-streaked rocks and steaming volcanoes create an eerie landscape

While Torres del Paine gets very busy during the high season, other parks in Patagonia attract far less people. Superb scenery can be enjoyed on a road trip along the Route 7, also known as the Carretera Austral. Non-drivers have an option to travel through southern Chile by bus, part of Chile’s reliable public transport network.

At the opposite end of the country, the Atacama Desert* is another natural highlight, where mineral-streaked rocks and steaming volcanoes create an eerie landscape in the driest desert in the world. Watch elegant flamingos tip-toe across crusted salt flats, and rise early to witness the spouting fury of the geothermal El Tatio geyser field. There’s also the chance to admire a gallery of alien shapes in the Valley of the Moon, and gaze at brilliant stars in night skies free from light pollution.

Frequently overlooked by British travellers, the Lake District in central Chile is popular with ski and outdoor enthusiasts. Initially inhabited by the Mapuche people, the area was later settled by German, Swiss and Austrian pioneers. It also has an interesting royal connection: Pucon was one of the few spots the Queen and Prince Philip visited on their trip to South America in 1968.

In terms of urban centres, capital city Santiago and bohemian coastal town Valparaiso are two of the best options. Get your fix of galleries, museums, street art, fine dining restaurants and wine bars serving blends from Chile’s excellent vineyards.

And don’t forget about Easter Island. Although 2,300 miles (3,700km) off the coast, it’s part of Chilean territory and a popular add-on to mainland tours. Attempt to unravel the mystery of Rano Raraku, a quarry where hundreds of monolithic sculptures known as moai were carved by the Rapa Nui people.

Where to stay

Expect an excellent choice of hotels, lodges and resorts across Chile. In the north, most Atacama properties are huddled around San Pedro de Atacama*. Here, you’ll find sumptuous terracotta stone houses and authentic adobe huts with spa and pool facilities, along with a selection of hostels, budget hotels and Airbnb rentals.

Many high-end companies who operate in Atacama also have retreats in Torres del Paine at a similarly high standard and in equally inventive designs. Stay in wooden camps, semi-tented domes and modern works of art built to reflect the landscape. It’s also possible to camp at serviced sites inside the park; otherwise Puerto Natales*, about an hour’s drive away, has a mixture of design hotels and cheaper guesthouses.

Elsewhere in Patagonia*, atmospheric options include former wool warehouses on remote fjords and working cattle estancias, while Bavarian-style resorts and ski lodges characterise the Lake District*.

The capital Santiago has a good range of heritage hotels, some occupying historical public buildings and grand mansion houses. Most boutique options can be found in the leafy Lastarria* and cultural Bellas Artes districts. Valparaiso also has its fair share of revamped private homes, and further along the coast resorts perch above the Pacific Ocean — including a property with the world’s largest swimming pool.

Don’t miss

Folklore abounds in the fairytale Chiloe islands, an archipelago off the coast of central Chile. Expect eccentric local characters, enormous bumble bees and traditional casseroles steamed in pots underground.

A collection of 17th century Jesuit churches there, built from wood, with roofs often mimicking a boat’s hull, has been given Unesco World Heritage status. Main island Chiloe is also home to the brightly coloured palafitos (stilt houses), lining the waterfront.

When to visit

Summer (October to March) is the best time for Patagonia, although Christmas and January can be extremely busy. Winds — and crowds — die down by March. Atacama is open year-round, although the stars shine brightest between December and February. Land between June and August if you want to try any snow sports.

FAQs

How many days should I spend in Chile?
A popular itinerary combining Atacama, Torres del Paine and Santiago requires about a week. For self-drive holidays through Patagonia, a 14-night trip is recommended.

Which part of Chile is the best?
Many travellers rate Patagonia as one of the top destinations in the world. Mountain trails, navigable fjords and vast steppes invite adventure, while dinosaur fossils and historic estancias reveal a fascinating past. Those who crave remoteness and isolation can seek out places without a whisper of human presence.

How many days do I need to see Easter Island?
It takes about five hours to reach the Pacific island by plane from Santiago, so you’ll want to spend a bit of time making the trip worthwhile. Four or five days should be sufficient to get a taste of Rapa Nui culture.

Currency Chilean peso

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Inspired to visit Chile but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Expedia* and Kayak*.

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