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From the dazzling cityscapes of Dubai to the dramatic dunes of Abu Dhabi’s Empty Quarter, there’s much more to the United Arab Emirates than meets the eye.

Made up of seven emirates — Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain, Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah — the country spans mountains and deserts, cities and sea, with skyscrapers, theme parks and shopping malls liberally scattered in between.

While many dismiss Dubai for its image of excess, there’s an unabashed sense of fun here that can be intoxicating. It’s not all glitzy restaurants, beach clubs and lavish hotels — although there are plenty of each if that’s your thing. Look a little closer and you’ll find surprising nature, a growing arts scene, and food from practically everywhere on the planet — the UAE lays claim to being home to 200 nationalities.

But there’s more to do in the UAE than stick to just one city. In Abu Dhabi, the largest emirate and home to the nation’s capital, the pace of life is measured but no less exciting. Vast desert landscapes, empty beaches and monumental architecture — including the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, a masterpiece of smoothly curved domes, minarets and polished marble, and the Qasr Al Watan Presidential Palace, where exquisite Arabian artistry is displayed on an almost unimaginable scale — combine to make Abu Dhabi worthy of a few days on its own.

Further north, Sharjah is a place that quietly gets on with showcasing exceptional architecture, art and archaeology, without making a fuss about it. Blink-and-you’ll-miss-them Ajman and Umm Al Quwain are places you’ll more likely drive through than stop in, but the former has kayaking in the mangroves, and the latter an intriguing roadside attraction in the form of a mysteriously abandoned Ilyushin IL-76 plane.

Just shy of the border with Oman’s Musandam peninsula is Ras Al Khaimah, with its rugged, mountainous landscapes and challenging hikes, as well as the UAE’s highest peak, Jebel Jais, home to the world’s longest zipline. And on the east coast, Fujairah’s ancient forts and turtle-filled warm waters cry out to be explored.

Main photo: Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi (Getty Images)

Dubai’s Jumeirah Beach* is the place for luxe seaside stays. It’s not one beach per se, but rather a long coastal neighbourhood that’s home to some of the city’s loveliest hotels, including the resorts around Madinat Jumeirah, connected by canals and traditional abra boats, and the sail-shaped Burj Al Arab which, after being off-limits to non-guests for most of its 22-year history, now offers tours.

If an urban environment is more your thing, Downtown Dubai* bristles with high-rise hotels, many with jaw-dropping views. It’s a stone’s throw from the 1,200-plus shops in the Dubai Mall, one of the world’s largest shopping centres, and a few minutes’ drive from the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), in the running to be the hottest places in the city for eating and drinking.

Best family hotels in Dubai

Over in Abu Dhabi, Saadiyat Island’s clear warm waters mimic Maldivian blues with extraordinary accuracy. Gaze at the horizon long enough and you’re likely to see dolphins pass by. The luxury resorts here are spread out along the wide sands and the beach rarely feels busy. It’s also a quick hop from here to Jean Nouvel’s extraordinary Louvre Abu Dhabi, with architecture inspired by the light that filters through date palm fronds, and a collection of works that highlights cultural similarities rather than differences. Don’t leave the UAE without spending a night in the desert. A number of dome tents and one-off camps have popped up recently, but it’s worth pushing the boat out at an uber-luxe property such as Dubai’s Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa or Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara in Abu Dhabi’s Empty Quarter, a setting so sublime it’s almost like a mirage.

Best hotels in Abu Dhabi

For sky-high views of the sprawling city, head to the Burj Khalifa*, the world’s tallest building, or take a spin on the new Ain Dubai, the world’s highest ferris wheel. Hopping on an abra on Dubai Creek is one of the best ways to see Old Dubai*, and at just 20p a crossing, it’s a steal. Some of the historic traders’ homes in the Al Fahidi area — including the delightful Arabian Tea House — date back 100 years, while those in next-door Al Seef are a modern-day facsimile, complete with faux wind towers which still manage to charm in spite of their newness. It’s also a great area for food — follow your nose around the narrow streets for Indian snacks, sweet karak tea and shwarma, or join a walking tour with Frying Pan Adventures, run by long-term Dubai residents who really know their stuff.

Alserkal Avenue is where an artsy crowd hangs out in warehouses full of galleries showcasing regional artists, cool cafés, co-working spaces, the region’s first arthouse cinema, Cinema Akil, and a regular programme of events.

Beyond the city limits, nature abounds. Soar over dunes in a hot air balloon, hike the Hatta mountains, or search for the endangered Arabian oryx in the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve*, and it’s easy to find yourself falling for the place.

For a change of pace, Abu Dhabi is a 90-minute drive from Downtown Dubai, and welcomes visitors with long, empty beaches, vast expanses of desert and ancient oases. While it may be home to the world’s fastest roller coaster, at Ferrari World*, the capital is a laid-back seaside city with a slower pace of life. Stroll along the Corniche next to a public beach that sits in the centre of the city, and stop for a break at the Emirates Palace Hotel, where practically every surface — including that of your cappuccino — is covered in gold.

Many of the places that make you fall in love with the UAE lie outside the main cities, so rent your own wheels to explore properly. Just over a 90-minute drive from both Dubai and Abu Dhabi is Al Ain*, a 4,000-year-old oasis town filled with 147,000 date palms. Just outside the town in the Jebel Hafit Desert Park are more than 500 Bronze Age tombs, some excavated, some untouched, and dome tents for overnight stays at the foot of Abu Dhabi’s highest — and only — mountain.

Visit the smaller emirates, too. Sharjah, just north of Dubai, is home to some of the UAE’s best — and blissfully crowd-free — museums and galleries. The Al Mahatta Museum, with its hangar of vintage aircraft, is built on the site of the UAE’s first airport, opened in 1932 as a staging post for flights from the UK to India. Over by the Corniche is the excellent Sharjah Art Foundation with regular exhibitions of regional and international art spread across galleries made of traditional coral stone.

A 50-minute drive from Sharjah city lies desert scenery with a side of history. The Mleiha Archaeological Centre is home to a fascinating museum plus tombs spread through a landscape where dunes meet mountains. At one of the area’s neolithic sites, archaeologists discovered a stone tool dating back 130,000 years, making it the earliest site outside Africa showing evidence of anatomically modern human life.

Unless you want to experience a bout of heatstroke, avoid making plans for summer sightseeing in the UAE. The best time to visit is between October and March when days are sunny, temperatures are comfortable, and humidity is low. You might even need an extra layer in winter.

What should I know before I go to the UAE?
The UAE is one of the most tolerant countries in the Middle East, but use common sense if you don’t want to fall foul of local laws or offend your hosts. Alcohol is widely available at hotels, restaurants, bars and beach clubs, but don’t take a cooler of beer to the public beach — it’s illegal to drink in public. In Dubai, shorts and beachwear are common, but in other parts of the country it’s wise to stay on the side of modesty.

Is it safe to travel to the UAE?
Both Dubai and Abu consistently rank high on various “world’s safest city” lists. As a visitor, you’re unlikely to experience any crime. If you’re renting a car, be aware that driving can be speedy here, and tailgating on highways is common. Stay out of the fast lane, keep your cool and enjoy the scenery.

Which part of the UAE is best?
Dubai has everything you could need in terms of beaches, luxury hotels and fine dining. Abu Dhabi, equally blessed with beautiful beaches, also has vast tracts of desert and extraordinary architecture in the mix. For mountain hikes and a complete change of scenery, head north to Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah. And for culture, art and heritage, the underrated emirate of Sharjah surprises at every turn.

Currency Dirham/AED; credit cards accepted almost everywhere.

Take me there

Inspired to visit UAE but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui Holidays* and British Airways*.

• Discover holiday packages to Dubai*
• Discover holiday packages to Abu Dhabi*