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The Sultanate of Oman might be the closest thing to the traditional notion of “Arabia”. Its capital, Muscat, with its whitewashed buildings and minarets, the call to prayer echoing off the nearby Hajar mountains, is an Islamic city of years gone by, with a languid, unhurried vibe.

Nearby, be transported to another world with a trip to the rippling sand dunes of the Sharqiya Sands (formerly known as Wahiba Sands), or the vast canyons of Jebel Shams, while the famed dive sites of the Musandam peninsula have been drawing in scuba divers from around the world for decades.

Oman is one of the few countries still relatively untouched by mass tourism

Each destination is vastly different, yet retains a strong link to the past through the preservation of the country’s rich heritage, observed in its traditional architecture, souks and restaurants. Tradition is still held in high regard in Oman; unlike some of its more westernised neighbours, visitors are still encouraged to dress appropriately, especially in its more conservative areas. It is one of the few countries that has remained relatively untouched by mass tourism — with gravel roads and wild landscapes desperate to be explored.

You won’t find an abundance of colour and cities teeming with life here (the domes and arabesque windows of Muscat are almost uniform in their whites and browns), but vibrancy is found in communities, in nooks and alleys. Experience it in the labyrinthine lanes of Muttrah Souk, Muscat, the remote communities hidden among the rocky mountain ranges or at a roadside food stall near Al-Mughsail beach in Salalah, a city in the green south. Most importantly, at certain times of the year parts of the country can be completely at odds with each other — it will be dry and 45C in Muscat and pouring with rain in Salalah. For a desert climate, it’s unlike anywhere else in the world.

Main photo: the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat (Alamy)

In Oman, life is best enjoyed slowly and quietly, so tourists take their cue from the locals. Wandering the streets of Muscat is rich in rewards, and most will head straight for the seaside enclave of Mutrah to get started. Take in the whitewashed buildings and minarets from the corniche, best viewed at sunset as the light illuminates the craggy mountains, and wander along the seafront to Mutrah Fort, which was built by the Portuguese in the 1580s. No trip to Muscat is complete without visiting the chaotic, serpentine alleys of Mutrah souk, which has retained the old-world charm of an Arab market and is the best place to haggle over traditional Omani handicrafts. The magnificent Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is an exemplary piece of Islamic architecture (just make sure you’re dressed appropriately, as this is a place of worship) and although it’s closed to the public, a quick stop in front of the vibrant colonnades of the Sultan’s Palace will complete a heritage tour of Muscat.

If you’re feeling extra-adventurous, head for Oman’s highest peak, Jebel Shams

Day trips or multiday jaunts from the capital are easy and plentiful with a four-wheel-drive: head south to the Sharqiya Sands*, an ocean of undulating, colour-changing dunes for dune bashing and camel rides, or head north to dive the sunken reef of the Musandam peninsula, home to one of the widest bio-diversities of marine life in the world. Inland from Muscat, the constantly flowing stream (an anomaly in the desert) of Wadi Bani Khalid, with its imposing boulders and large pools, is a great spot to cool off in summer. If you’re feeling extra-adventurous, head for Oman’s highest peak, Jebel Shams*, with spectacular views into Wadi Ghul, known as the Grand Canyon of Arabia.

Mass tourism still hasn’t found a foothold in Oman; good if you’re looking for a quieter getaway with fewer crowds, not so good if you’re looking for reams of choice in accommodation. Luckily, the addition in recent years of large international chains such as W and Kempinski means there’s enough choice to suit most tastes and budgets.

The capital is the place to seek out the in-your-face, go-big-or-go-home luxury stays to tell the children about, with a vast selection of palatial beachfront resorts with spectacular views over the Gulf of Oman to choose from. If you’re looking for something unique, venture into the Hajar mountains and soak in the alpine air from one of Jabal Akhdar’s five-star or boutique hotels, while learning about traditional Omani culture from excursions into nearby villages. For the quintessential desert experience, try a camp for days spent exploring the never-ending sand dunes and nights around the campfire.

Six Senses Zighy Bay*, in a private enclave in the northern reaches of Oman, is unparalleled for luxury. In Salalah, choose from eco-friendly cabins on stilts or island vibes at upscale seafront getaways lined with palm trees, private pools and an air of tranquillity.

If you’re visiting in monsoon (khareef) season, from June to September, make time for Salalah. The desert landscape transforms into a green oasis for a few short months, with lush trees enshrouding the countryside and the usually dry wadis brimming with water, giving way to waterfalls. Visit Al-Husn Souk to pick up some frankincense and myrrh as souvenirs.

Don’t miss the chance to witness the pilgrimage of thousands of baby turtles

For culture, the month-long Muscat Festival takes place in the first quarter of the year, usually in February, and transforms the capital into something of an open-air carnival, with stage shows, culinary and cultural events and fireworks. It’s a good crash course in Omani culture.

For lovers of marine life, don’t miss the chance to witness the pilgrimage of thousands of baby turtles, taking their first steps to freedom. April to August is peak turtle nesting season in Oman, when approximately 20,000 turtles come to lay their eggs on its eastern beaches. One of the best places to witness this spectacle is the fishing village of Ras Al Jinz, which is the biggest turtle reserve in the Indian Ocean.

Peak season in Oman runs roughly from October to April, when daily temperatures are at their most mild (17C to 35C) and humidity is low. Rainfall is scarce (apart from Salalah’s monsoons), so days will almost certainly be sunny and cloudless. Temperatures start to rise in May, and by mid-June it simply isn’t pleasant to be outdoors during daylight hours, so it’s best to avoid the scorching summer months. However, if your dates are fixed, June to September can be enjoyed in Salalah during the spectacular monsoon season, or in the mountains, where temperatures tend to sit several degrees lower than elsewhere.

Is it safe to travel to Oman?
The crime rate across the Gulf is low and Oman is no exception. Women should feel safe to walk alone at night and valuables can be left on restaurant tables without fear of them being nicked. However, if you want to avoid unsolicited stares, dress appropriately by covering shoulders and legs. Oman remains a conservative country and it’s a small price to pay for access to a nation still relatively untouched by mass tourism.

How many days do I need in Oman?
To experience the full spectrum — Muscat, the mountains, a day trip or two into the desert — set yourself aside at least a week. Wandering the alleys of Muscat deserves at least a couple of days, while the Hajar mountains, Sharqiya Sands and nearby wadis can be experienced as day trips or over a prolonged road trip.

Currency Omani rials

Take me there

Inspired to visit Oman but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from British Airways* and Expedia*.

• Discover holidays to Muscat*
• Discover holidays to Salalah*
• Discover tours in Oman*