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Few countries have as much historical appeal as Greece. From the Parthenon to the peaks of Mount Olympus, the spirit of the ancient Greeks is tangible in its mythical landscapes and multitude of archaeological sites. However, modern Greece has an immediacy that reflects the locals’ live-in-the-moment attitude: the dazzling light, wide-open horizons and the cheap thrill of eating net-fresh seafood at tables plonked in the sand.

Nowhere conjures up carefree beach holidays quite like the Greek islands, whether you choose the white sands of the Ionians, including Kefalonia, or Naxos in the Cyclades with its bleached hilltop villages, but the Greek mainland is too often overlooked — and few know to steer beyond its well-worn tourist trails. Do so and you’ll be duly rewarded by pelicans rising like a pink cloud above the silver sheen of the Prespa Lakes, eagles circling above the soaring canyons of the Zagori and black-robed monks chanting in Meteora’s monasteries, perched improbably on top of pillars of rock.

See the latest rules and restrictions for visiting Greece

Main photo: Voutoumi Bay, Antipaxos (Getty Images)

Don’t skip Athens — it’s a vibrant city where ancient monuments rub shoulders with edgy neighbourhoods and urban beaches. It’s also the perfect launch pad for island-hopping adventures, but with more than 200 inhabited Greek islands, it’s hard to know which one to choose. Chartering a boat is the best way to hit multiple isles and uncover secret coves, and Spetses Cruising specialises in boat trips in the Saronic Islands, near Athens, which are sheltered from the northerly Meltemi wind. Plenty of the larger cruise ships also visit the Greek Islands and offer a range of package options.

When you travel to Greece there’s as much to explore underwater as above ground. Head to volcanic Milos, pocked with iridescent sea caves, and soak in the hot springs. Or dip under the surface in the Alonissos Marine Park, where you can swim alongside endangered monk seals.

Chartering a boat is the best way to hit multiple isles and uncover secret coves

If road-tripping is more your thing, the Peloponnese has a thrill around every mountain bend: the Byzantine castles of Mystras and Monemvasia, the rolling sand dunes of Kaiafas and the austere stone watchtowers of Mani. If you’re travelling on foot, Crete offers a vast contrast of landscapes, from spectacular gorges to snow-capped mountains, while Andros has well-maintained hiking trails cooled by waterfalls and mountain springs.

There’s been a surge of hotel openings in the historic centre of Athens. Find one that’s in walking distance of the Acropolis, preferably with a roof terrace so you can enjoy drinks with the ghosts of the ancient Greeks. Thessaloniki, Greece’s second city and its de facto food capital, makes a lively base for exploring the three-pronged peninsula of Halkidiki or the up-and-coming wineries of Macedonia and Thrace. The rugged mountains of Pelion and Epirus — year-round travel destinations for adventures — are dotted with charming family-run guesthouses. From Epirus, it’s a short hop over to the Ionian islands. Beyond the long-established resorts of Corfu, these lush islands are best for luxurious villas rather than hotels. The Cyclades are the most crowded and costly group of Greek islands. To avoid the crush, head for an island without an airport, such as Tinos, Sifnos or Folegandros, where sleek boutique hotels in whitewashed villages are increasingly easy to find. For families, larger islands such as Rhodes have plenty of affordable options, while swim-up rooms are the go-to for couples.

• Best hotels in Mykonos
• Best hotels in Santorini

Turn over any stone in Greece and you’re likely to uncover some ancient treasure. Beyond the blockbuster archaeology sites, such as Delos, Delphi and Mycenae, there are dozens of lesser-known antiquities with not a coach party in sight. My favourite is Karthaia, an ancient city-state on the island of Kea, with a temple and amphitheatre poised above twin bays where you can snorkel through sunken ruins. Like most of the best beaches in Greece, Karthaia is only accessible on foot or by boat. The islands of Hydra and Symi excel at far-flung, car-free beaches, which are regularly serviced by water taxis. Pack water and peaches and stay until the last boat back at sunset. Santorini and Mykonos may seem like the obvious choice but white-domed churches, lively nightlife and beautiful views still sing of a real Greek experience.

Greek country life centres around the village square. Pull up a rickety chair and while away an afternoon in the kafenion (coffee shop), where backgammon sessions fuelled by cold beers can go on for hours.

The islands of Hydra and Symi excel at far-flung, car-free beaches

The sleepy squares liven up as night falls and locals gather round tightly packed tables to share grilled octopus, tomato salad and oregano-flecked chips under the stars, the warm air tinged with the heady scent of jasmine. Evenings like these are the essence of Greece — effortless, inclusive and unplanned.

Almost every season but winter — although that’s also becoming increasingly popular for city breaks on the mainland. Greek Easter (April or May) is a joyful celebration: you’ll find hills ablaze with wildflowers, alfresco feasts, and candlelit chapels. Spring is also a great season for hiking, with a cool breeze still whispering through the air. For a beach holiday without the crowds, September is the time to visit as the sea is warm until late October and prices will be a lot cheaper. If you intend on island hopping though, July and August will offer the best availability in terms of scheduled ferries.

Best time to visit Greece

Which island is most popular?
It’s a toss-up between Mykonos (glamour, great beaches, and dancing until dawn), Santorini (cave hotels and spectacular sunsets) and Crete (ruins, ravines, and fantastic food).

Is Greece an expensive place to visit?
Greece is no longer the cheap backpackers’ travel destination it once was. Ferry tickets are surprisingly expensive, so island-hopping can really add up. If you’re travelling on a budget, book the older, slower ferries rather than high-speed catamarans and hydrofoils. As a rule, the mainland is more affordable than the islands. Tavernas and taxis are still very reasonable compared with most European countries.

Should you tip in Greece?
Though generous to a fault, Greeks are not big tippers. A 10 per cent tip in restaurants is a good idea (leave cash if you’re paying by credit card). In taxis, bars, and cafés, it’s acceptable to just round up the bill by a couple of euros. Bigger tips are expected on the most expensive Greek islands, Mykonos and Santorini.

Inspired to visit Greece but yet to book your trip? Here are the best hotels to stay with Mr&Mrs Smith and Expedia, as well as the best Greece tours from trusted travel partners