Albania travel guide

When to go, what to do, and why you'll love it

Why you'll love it

This article contains links from which we may earn revenue. These links are signposted with an asterisk. More information here.

For years, Albania was something of a Cinderella figure — absent from the great ball of European holiday destinations. That’s now changing as the secret gets out: this unsung Balkan nation has a coastline as majestic as Croatia, Ottoman-era towns with a faint echo of Istanbul, Roman ruins to rival those across the Adriatic, and a boisterous capital at its heart. And yet it is also unique: visiting Albania means encountering a proud nation unlike any in Europe — its language has no near relatives and for much of the 20th century its bizarre brand of atheist communism saw it entirely cut off from the rest of the world.

Now’s the time to visit this overlooked jewel — while its capacity to surprise remains intact

To this day, unhappy (and often unfair) associations with unrest and organised crime continue to keep some Brits away. And yet those who do take the time to visit Albania go home with a wildly different impression. Its sublime sandy coves remain relatively uncrowded by foreign tourists. Road trips through its green hinterland reveal humpbacked bridges over rushing rivers and  slender minarets rising over bucolic villages. Of course, it helps that prices are lower than neighbouring countries like Greece and Montenegro, and that visitors are greeted warmly by locals, in a place yet to be hit by a tidal wave of mass tourism. Now’s the time to visit this overlooked jewel of the Mediterranean — while its capacity to surprise remains intact.

Main photo: Lake Shkodra (Alamy)

Get planning

28 alternative holiday destinations
Discover far-flung islands, go whale watching, or witness grizzly bears roaming in the wild and shake up your travel plans with our incredible holiday destinations
Best Mediterranean cruises
A large number of cruise lines, ships and itineraries operate in the Mediterranean. Our guide will help you navigate the options
Best Mediterranean islands to visit
Whether you’re looking for culture, beaches or some world-class partying, here’s where to find your island idyll
Best luxury villas in Montenegro
The ultimate luxury villas in of-the-moment Montenegro, from palatial waterfront rentals to hilltop retreats with Adriatic views

What to do

The usual starting point for an Albanian odyssey is Tirana International Airport — serving a capital that lies, more or less, at the geographic centre of the country. Tirana* is by no means conventionally attractive, but a walking tour of its boulevards reveals a likeable and energetic city: the communist-era monuments at Skanderbeg Square and the Pyramid of Tirana (formerly a museum to Albania’s dictator, Enver Hoxha) offer glimpses of its recent past. Strike northward to the serene shores of Lake Skadar — a reedy expanse that straddles the border with Montenegro — and a jumping point for walks in the Accursed Mountains (also known as the Albanian Alps).

In the green hills to the south of Tirana lie two most handsome towns — the Unesco world heritage sites of Berat* and Gjirokaster*. Both see hulking fortresses loom over higgledy-piggledy townhouses, graceful mosques and restaurants and cafes serving Albanian food like byrek and hearty stews. But for many the great lure of the south is its coast — driving the hair-raisingly wiggly Llogara Pass brings you to the threshold of the Albanian Riviera. Here there are beaches for all occasions: Gjipe offers tranquil cliff-hemmed sands, Dhermi hosts party goers, while history buffs might head to the resort of Ksamil — where the Roman ruins of Butrint watch over a nearby lagoon.

Where to stay

Albania has relatively little in the way of high-end accommodation — communist-era behemoth hotels are still prevalent — but things are changing. Tirana* has seen a few comfortable, modern hotels become established in recent years, though the most characterful stays are beyond the capital: you’ll find glamping options pitched by the shores of Lake Shkodra, and farmhouse B&Bs and rustic homestays in the Albanian Alps.

Berat* and Gjirokastra both have a few historic lodgings — Ottoman-era houses serve as both hotels and holiday lets, many adorned with kilim rugs and rickety balconies. Right along the Albanian Riviera — and in coastal towns like Durres* — there’s a predictable array of seaside resorts frequented by local tourists, as well as whitewashed Hellenic-style lodgings in the Greek-speaking centres.

Don't miss

The Albanian Alps offer swaggering mountain scenery redolent of the Dolomites or Yosemite. They are, however, somewhat remote and the logistics of getting there can be perplexing — fortunately local operators offer mini-packages (including transfers and accommodation). A classic three-day itinerary out of Shkodra sees travellers sail into the summits aboard the Komani Lake Ferry — a spectacular boat ride along a reservoir reminiscent of the Norwegian fjords — before connecting to the resort of Valbone.

A one-day hike then crosses jagged karst peaks to Albania’s prettiest village, Theth, where a little church lies amid mountain meadows. Buses then shepherd you along ear-popping mountain roads back towards Shkodra. For more dedicated adventurers there’s another way to explore this range: both Valbone and Theth lie on the Peaks of the Balkans trail — an epic 119-mile circuit around the Dinaric Alps that also crosses the frontier into Kosovo and Montenegro.

Best time to visit

As with many Mediterranean destinations, the cooler shoulder season periods of April to June and September to October can be a good time to visit. September can be an excellent choice — most of the high-season tourists have departed, the sea is still warm and cooling mountain breezes make for perfect hiking weather before the first winter snows. You’ll still also find some late-season music festivals taking place in Dhermi.

FAQs

Is Albania expensive?
By European standards, Albania is an extremely affordable destination — expect to pay under £50 for a comfortable hotel, and well under £10 for a meal with wine (along with Albanian cuisine, Italian food is widely available). Tirana itself is very affordable as capitals go; prices can be higher along the coast, especially on the Albanian Riviera. Admission to museums and ancient sites, such as Butrint and Apollonia, is also excellent value compared to their equivalents in other European countries. The currency is the Albanian lek.

How many days do I need in Albania?
It’s possible to get a good impression of the whole country over a two-week holiday. Aim for one week focused on Tirana, the mountains and all points north, with a second week devoted to the Albanian Riviera and the historic towns of the south. Albania also works as part of a coastal road trip along the Adriatic between Montenegro and Greece. A few tourists also take the short ferry ride from the Greek island of Corfu to explore the south over a few days.

Take me there

Inspired to visit Albania but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from BA Holidays* and Expedia*. These are the best tours of Albania from our trusted partners*.