Callejon de los Sapos - Puebla, Mexico

Mexico travel guide

When to go, what to do and why you’ll love it

Why you’ll love it

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Mexico’s sun-kissed coastline has sugar-white sands at luxurious all-inclusive resorts, waterside Mayan ruins, and the technicolour Mesoamerican Reef. Turtles, whale sharks and coral-munching parrotfish are just a few of the marine creatures that can be spotted in the tropical waters here.

Inland, there are active volcanoes, ancient pyramids, and fascinating cities waiting to be discovered.

Its bustling markets are full of colourful decorative pom-poms and piñatas, stunning woven fabrics and wraps, and bargain ceramics and copperware. Travel out with a light suitcase and you won’t have trouble filling it, even if you’re not a big spender.

And then there’s the food and drink. Tacos, tamales, quesadillas, margaritas — the menu here is undeniably one of the best in the world; moreish, heavily corn-based and zesty with a squeeze of lime.

Whether you drive round a small region or coach and plane-hop a bigger slice, your Mexico trip is guaranteed to be packed with colour, noise, sunshine and deliciously unfamiliar flavours.

Main photo: Callejon de los Sapos, Puebla (Alamy)

Get planning

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What to do

For relaxation, there’s no doubt that Riviera Maya — on Mexico’s Caribbean coast — is the place to be. You’ll have your pick of some of the best resorts on Earth here, as well as easy access to iconic ruins such as Tulum, Chichen Itza and Uxmal. There’s also the opportunity to swim in some of the Yucatan Peninsula’s 6,000 plus cenotes (water-filled sinkholes).

With equally beautiful beaches and the whale-rich waters of Baja California, Mexico’s Pacific coast is just as majestic. Or for a hefty dose of history and culture, head to Oaxaca — known for its colonial buildings, crafted using volcanic stone.

Mexico City is one of the world’s most glamorous capitals

Mexico City is one of the world’s most glamorous, arty and foodie capitals, with an astonishing layered history to dig into. Fly here, rather than Cancun, as flights are often cheaper, and take affordable, comfy coaches to pretty towns with craft markets and tequila distilleries. Spend a perfect afternoon in Frida Kahlo’s house, sighing over the pain in her paintings, coveting the folksy, wicker-and-ceramic interiors and strolling through the jungly courtyard, its cobalt walls every bit as soothing as sea or sky.

The Caribbean coast around Cancun is where you’ll find powdery white sand, pale-turquoise shallows, swaying palms and hedonistic all-inclusive resorts. It’s also the most popular bit, so you’ll need to work harder to find accommodation beyond the high-rises.

Off the coast of the Yucatan are Isla Mujeres and Isla Holbox, both perfect for boat trips, marine life and low-key accommodation. They are where backpackers and in-the-know Caribbean-lovers flock to in winter for clear shallows, white beaches and a bohemian hotel and bar scene. From June to September, it’s also whale shark central.

Puerto Vallarta, on the Pacific coast, is where to go for big, glam resorts and reliable winter sun, while neighbouring Punta Mita lures America’s “snowbirds” for lazy holidays, so it can feel more Californian than Mexican. But there are beautiful bays within an hour or two’s drive, as well as a cobbled, palm-fringed Old Town that does a surprisingly riotous Day of the Dead. Winter to spring, head out from its marina to spot humpbacks and dolphins offshore.

Further south, close to high-rise Ixtapa, is the former fishing town of Zihuatanejo in the state of Guerrero. As well as surfers, cafés and cool locals you’ll find untouched coastal roads for exploring wild beaches, such as Playa Blanca, where you can kayak through mangroves, and try a whole different cuisine. Order caldo de cuatete (blue catfish soup) and guintatan (dried fish cooked in coconut milk) for starters.

Much of the focus in hip, hippy Puerto Escondido is on surfing. Indeed, its waves are thought of as the best on Mexico’s Pacific coast, followed by lively nights out along buzzing beaches such as Zicatela. If you’re happier in flippers than atop a board, go snorkelling with whales, turtles or dolphins (depending on the season) around placid Playa Puerto Angelito.

Mazunte is Oaxaca state’s “Pueblo Magico” (magic town) and is where to find yoga retreats and cool Airbnbs as well as attracting nature lovers to its wild beaches. It’s also a haven for sea turtles — spot them from July to January. Fly to Puerto Escondido and take the hour-and-a-quarter drive, or brave the lurching eight-hour bus from Oaxaca.

Where to stay

Mexico is bursting with cool places to stay, for all manner of tastes and budgets; unsurprising, perhaps, for a country that’s known for its extraordinary diversity in everything from food and drink to the landscapes and cultural identities. Expect all sorts of properties from the last word in A-list glam to all-inclusives, soulful indigenous-owned hotels, sprawling villas and apartment rentals.

The real A-list secrets are to be found in sprawling private estates outside the main drag

While glitzy, American-style family-friendly resorts are peppered across the country’s northernmost coastal regions such as Baja California and Riviera Maya, the real A-list secrets are to be found in sprawling private estates outside the main drag. Cuixmala is a 30,000-acre nature reserve, private estate and eco-hotel just south of Puerto Vallarta on the Pacific coast. It was the escape of choice for sitting US presidents; think wildlife-rich land, pristine beaches, lavish architecture and near-total privacy.

Mexican-owned properties are more dominant in cultural hubs like Oaxaca and the Yucatan Peninsula. We love Condesa DF in Mexico City — which, though owned by Mexican hotel group, Grupo Habita, owes its distinctive interiors to Iranian-French designer, India Mahdavi — and female-run Hotel Taselotzin (in Nahuatl, “small plant or shoot”) in Puebla’s Sierra Norte mountains.

While Tulum — long a mainstay for bohemian travellers — has become hugely popular over the years, youthful hubs such as Isla Holbox or Todos Santos are comparatively under the radar and have a more spiritual approach to beach life.

Don't miss

Just an hour’s drive from the centre of Mexico City are the mystical pyramids of Teotihuacan; a half-day tour with a guide will help you to decipher the meanings and significance of the pyramids, carvings, ball-game court and the Avenue of the Dead.

It’s just two hours’ drive from the capital to petite Puebla, famed for local crafts and pastel churches, while Guadalajara is “tequila town” and has a little of everything you’ll love about Mexico: balmy evenings, rugged scenery, vibrant street art and quesadillas for breakfast. Stock up on limited-edition bottles of tequila with pretty labels and come away feeling like an expert.

If you base yourself along the Riviera Maya or in Tulum you are near the most impressive Mayan ruins on the Yucatan Peninsula. The most famous — Chichen Itza and jungle-shrouded Coba — are both reachable within a two-hour drive.

Best time to visit

In general, November to February are the best months to visit Mexico — you’ll miss the hurricane season and the weather is dry and pleasant. Festival-goers won’t want to miss Mexico’s Day of the Dead celebrations in November, best experienced in Oaxaca or Mexico City, while December and January are busy with those escaping for Christmas and new year. But the country offers up plenty of reasons to travel at other times of the year too. To glimpse the moving snake shadows at Chichen Itza’s El Castillo pyramid, visit during the spring or autumn equinoxes. And to be in a chance of seeing whale sharks, book your holiday for any time from June to September.

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