Belize travel guide

What to do, where to stay and why you'll love it

Why you’ll love it

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Belize often feels like an island that drifted into Central America from the Caribbean — or never quite broke off to be with its cousins in the first place. It’s one of just two English-speaking countries in all of Latin America (the other is Guyana in South America) and the sudden change in language can feel like a genuine surprise to anyone who travels overland from Belize’s Spanish-speaking cousins.

In any tongue, this little country between Mexico and Guatemala is a real beauty, rich with its own distinct culture, but with remnants of impressive Mayan history and Latino influences too. That doesn’t mean it’s stuffy — if a deep dive into the soulful side of the nation holds no appeal, simply head to San Pedro to party the nights away.

With 450 islands off its tropical coast, it’s a firm favourite with snorkellers and divers, and in the Great Blue Hole — an otherworldly marine sinkhole — it has one of the planet’s most singular and sought-after dive sites as well as the second-longest barrier reef.

Inland there’s dense jungle and Mayan ruins and, for environmentally minded travellers, no shortage of pioneering conservation projects to discover.

Main photo: Caye Caulker, one of the islands off the Belize coast (Getty Images)

What to do

It’s inevitable that you’ll end up in the water here. There’s jet-skiing and sailing, but the real focus is on snorkelling* and diving*. Even in shallower waters you can expect to see rays, innumerable tropical fish and, if you’re lucky, West Indian manatees.

There are a number of fishing charters available; some of the Caribbean’s most sought-after catches, including bonefish and tarpon, are found here.

On land, the focus shifts to the country’s thick jungle and national parks. With fewer than half a million people, it’s the most sparsely populated country in Central America and much of its wild space is still untouched; expect to hear the calls of howler monkeys ringing in the background of jungle treks and birding excursions. A stay at the San Ignacio Resort Hotel* brings a chance to visit its pioneering Green Iguana Conservation Project too.

Where to stay

Where you stay in Belize will likely depend on your interests. There are day trips available back to the mainland from the various cayes (coral islands) but if your interest is primarily in Belize’s jungles, wildlife, or Mayan history, then you’d be better staying close to a town, such as San Ignacio*. Here, most hotels and lodges offer wilderness tours, though they will likely be visited by wildlife too.

As unlikely as it seems, the legendary filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola owns several hotels in Central America, including the Blancaneaux Lodge*, which is largely isolated in the jungle.

Out at sea, on islands such as Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker, there’s a more diverse portfolio from which to choose. Several large hotel brands, including Hilton with the Mahogany Lodge, are dotted around the islands. The majority of hotels on the more distant atolls specialise in whole-island hires and, of course, diving trips.

Discover the best hotels in Belize

Food and drink

Given its petite size — the capital, Belize City, has a population of around 60,000 — it’s understandable that Belize has few clearly identifiable national dishes or drinks. Much of Mexico’s most popular street food is readily available here, including tacos, tamales and pico de gallo. Fresh ceviche is also easy to find and comes with the reassurance of knowing that the fish will have travelled a minimal amount of distance to its citrus bath in your bowl. Caribbean influences can be found with johnny cakes and chicken stew, while Mayan influences include cochinita pibil, a version of slow-cooked pork.

For something more specifically Belizean, try fry jacks, a type of fried bread often served at breakfast, or conch fritters and Belizean garnaches (a sort of open taco) later in the day. Wash it all down with fresh fruit juices or coconut water and when night falls reach for rum — the de facto national drink.

Don't miss

With Chichen Itza and Tikal under Guatemala and Mexico’s belt, it can feel like the most spectacular Mayan ruins have already been spoken for. Yet looking at the map, it’s of course logical that the ancient kingdom also stretched into what we now call Belize. There may not be anything of the scale of its nominal rivals, but sites such as Altun Ha*, north of Belize City, are nonetheless impressive, especially for newcomers to the region.

Further south, the spectacular site at Xunantunich* now lies outside of San Ignacio but thrived in the 7th century when it was a focal point of worship and trade and had a permanent population of around 10,000 Mayans. This would have been dwarfed by mighty Caracol, which is thought to have had as many as 150,000 residents in its pomp, making it comfortably double the size of Belize City today. Located just on the Guatemalan border, it gives a sense of the mighty empire without the crowds you’ll find in similar sites in the region.

Know before you go

The currency is the Belize dollar, which is pegged to the US equivalent at half the value; two Belize dollars are always worth one US dollar. Sitting on the edge of the Caribbean, the country is occasionally hit by hurricanes, the season for which runs approximately from August to October making those months not the best time to visit Belize. Dry season is from December to April when occupancy will be high, tours busy, and bookings almost always required. English is the local language but there are no direct flights from the UK, despite Belize being a former British colony. Connections mostly run through the US.

Take me there

Inspired to visit Belize but yet to book your trip? Here are the best hotels from Mr and Mrs Smith* and Kayak*.

Get planning

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