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Just when you think you’ve got a handle on Antigua, it’ll turn around and surprise you. You’ll happily spend your days on a perfect crescent of white sand, dipping in and out of the warm, turquoise waters of the Caribbean, and decide it’s the perfect beach destination — and then you’ll find out about the rainforest carpeting the interior, and make plans to go hiking or for a ride along the scenic Fig Tree Drive. You’ll order goat curry and a bottle of Wadadli beer for dinner each evening and believe the island’s cuisine is all about down-home cooking — and then you’ll visit a new fusion restaurant and be served yellow-fin tuna tartare and sticky pork with papaya, washed down with a Rum Old Fashioned. You’ll drift between the first-rate facilities of your inclusive resort and the tourist-friendly shops and cafés of Redcliffe Quay and think Antigua was made for holidaymakers — and then a local will invite you to the weekly fish fry and tell you about the island’s storied history, and you’ll soon be heading to one of its many heritage sites. Visit Antigua, and the only thing you can be sure of is that it’ll never stop changing your mind.

Main photo: St John’s (Getty Images)

Locals will tell you there’s a strip of sand for each day of the year and with 365 they’re bang-on. There really is an option for everyone, whether you prefer quiet coves all to yourself (try Half Moon Bay or Darkwood Beach), or lively stretches with beach bars delivering drinks to your sun lounger and every type of watersport on offer (try Curtain Bluff or Dickenson Bay). It’s not all sea-and-sand here though; Antigua has plenty of things to do and a rich and fascinating history, best explored in the Unesco site of Nelson’s Dockyard, a still-functioning marina with roots in the 17th century, and at one of the island’s sugar mills and plantations. The more active traveller is well catered for, too, with options for hiking and ziplining in the jungled interior, and diving and snorkelling in the gin-clear waters around the island. Incredible sunsets are a given wherever you are; for one of the best, head up to Shirley Heights, an old gun station turned lookout in southern Antigua, with stirring views over Falmouth and English Harbour. If you’re here on a Sunday night, don’t miss the end-of-week party.

Incredible sunsets are a given wherever you are; for one of the best, head up to Shirley Heights

The accommodation scene on Antigua is defined by resorts. They range from secluded hideaways in heritage properties and adults-only, architect-designed properties specialising in barefoot luxury, to all-singing, all-dancing family-oriented numbers offering every amenity possible. The one constant is that each has been designed to take advantage of their beachfront setting — many guest rooms have balconies or terraces offering striking sea views, and hotel bars and restaurants are set up as close to the sand as possible. You’ll generally need a healthy budget to book a stay, with many resorts edging towards the ‘high end’ of the accommodation spectrum; booking for multiple nights* or as part of a package can bring some reasonable savings.

Beautiful villas in Antigua

Best all-inclusive hotels in Antigua

If you want something a lot quieter you’ll find a clutch of small, family-run guesthouses on the island, tucked away from the coastal hotspots. All beaches on Antigua are public, so you’re able to visit any you like, even if it sits within a resort’s grounds; this can give you access to some of the facilities of some superb hotels, without actually booking a stay there.

All beaches on Antigua are public, even if they sit within a resort’s grounds

If you like seafood, you’re in the right place. You’re guaranteed some of the best meals of your life here, with mahi-mahi, tuna, lobster, conch and crab starring on most menus. The finest way to enjoy them is usually the simplest (grilled and served with rice), though you’ll also find them in more complex soups and curries. The national dish is ‘fungie’, a cornmeal creation similar to polenta, which is often served with either saltfish or pepperpot (a vegetable and meat stew). Don’t miss out on ‘goat water’, the Antiguan version of goat curry, made with tender, spicy chunks of meat. Hot sauce is offered in many restaurants, and makes a great souvenir, too — Susie’s Original Hot Sauce is known as one of the best. On the drinks front, you’ll likely end each day with a rum punch, made with lime juice, sugar syrup and bitters; there’s some debate over which is the best local rum but English Harbour generally wins. If you’d prefer something a little less strong, Wadadli is a locally brewed and decidedly refreshing lager.

You’re guaranteed some of the best meals of your life here

Wildlife watching sets Antigua apart from other the islands, it’s not is an activity often associated with the Caribbean. There are 51 islands offshore and each buzzes with bird and marine life, as well as endemic snakes and lizards. Plenty of tour operators will take you out to them for the day – boats leave from Jolly Harbour in the west of the island. Once you’re on board and on your way, look out for brown pelicans and magnificent frigate birds in the skies above, and turtles and stingrays in the water below. There’ll be stops built in so you can swim or wade to the islands for a closer look. If you’re not so interested in wildlife, a boat trip is still a lovely way to spend some time here — lounging on deck with a cocktail, jumping in the water for a snorkel, and enjoying a picnic on the beach. If you really discover your sea legs, you’ll want to book ahead for the annual Antigua Sailing Week, one of the biggest events in the sailing calendar with races (and partying) galore.

There are 51 islands offshore and each buzzes with bird and marine life

The main currency is the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$), though US dollars are also accepted, as are credit and debit cards in many places. There are ATMs all over the island, including at the airport and in the capital St John’s. Hurricane season is from July to November; though the risk is generally small, you’re more likely to see storms in this period and some hotels and venues close. Note that Antigua is officially one half of the nation of Antigua and Barbuda, part of the Leeward Islands chain; Antigua is the larger and more populated of the two.

Take me there

Inspired to visit Antigua but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from BA*, Tui* and Caribbean Warehouse*.