New Zealand travel guide

What to do, where to stay and why you’ll love it

Why you’ll love it

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New Zealand may be known for its adventure activities — it is, after all, the birthplace of the commercial bungee jump — but there’s a lot more to this extraordinary country than the adrenaline in its veins. Explore remarkable landscapes of fire and ice, from bubbling mud pools and volcanic plains to soaring glaciers and snow-topped mountains. Enjoy pristine sandy beaches and quiet forests disturbed only by birdsong. Add to that the rich native Maori culture, and you have an ideal destination to explore.

The country is a land of extremes, from the soaring glaciers and mountains of the Southern Alps to the belching, bubbling mud pools of Rotorua and the rumbling volcanic peaks of Tongariro National Park (so forbidding that it doubled as Mordor in Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings trilogy). It draws adventure-seekers from across the globe to leap off bridges and thrash through surging rivers, yet it’s one of the most laid-back places on Earth, with endless opportunities to soak, laze and wander amid truly beautiful scenery.

It draws thrill-seekers from across the globe, yet it’s one of the most laid-back places on Earth

And that’s not to mention the food. Prepare to loosen the belt buckle a notch or two, thanks to the delectable homegrown lamb and beef, fresh seafood such as crayfish and kina (sea urchins), traditional Maori hangi feasts cooked in the earth and, of course, pavlova for dessert. You can wash it all down with some of the southern hemisphere’s best coffee and wine.

Main photo: Dramatic skies over Wharakiki beach on South Island (Getty Images)

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What to do

New Zealand’s attractions are spread widely across the country and public transport can be limited, making it the perfect destination for a road trip. From Auckland, drive to the explosive geothermic region of Rotorua and soak in a therapeutic mud bath, or head north to the Bay of Islands, a smattering of hilly green islets emerging from turquoise waters. Here, you can simply enjoy the golden beaches, or go sea kayaking to explore the islands, keeping an eye out for the curious dolphin residents of the bay.

At the Waitomo Caves, there’s a rather different activity on offer — “black water rafting”, where you can climb into a wetsuit and clamber through subterranean tunnels before floating along an underground river lit by tiny glow-worms clinging to the stalactites above like an endless starry sky. Incredible hikes are available across the country, from the Abel Tasman Coast Track that traces rugged cliffs and idyllic beaches, to the Milford Track, with views across the majestic fjordlands and Southern Alps. For a more fiery option, consider the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, which weaves through a barren volcanic landscape dotted with jewel-bright lakes.

On South Island, head to Queenstown, aka “the adrenaline capital of the world”, to test your mettle with some of the most extreme and exhilarating experiences on the planet, including jetboating, quad biking, parasailing and zip-lining just for starters. You can take the plunge at the “home of bungee jumping” — Queenstown’s Karawau Bridge, the location of the world’s first permanent commercial bungee site — with a 43m (140ft) plunge into the gorge below. And be sure to include a visit to one of the South Island’s most popular attractions, Milford Sound, a vast fjord that stretches to the Tasman Sea, with steep green sides that become marbled with a thousand waterfalls after rain. Take a cruise across the dark waters and watch out for dolphins, whales and New Zealand fur seals.

Where to stay

New Zealand has accommodation options for any budget, from free camping and low-cost hostels to some of the most scenic luxury stays in the world. Accommodation in the cities ranges from standard business hotels to quirky B&Bs and high-end boutique properties. In Auckland, find beautifully updated Victorian and Edwardian guesthouses, with eclectic furniture and original features such as open fireplaces, or for a more modern approach, choose a downtown hotel with a lively rooftop bar and views over the water.

It’s in the more remote reaches of the country that you’ll find the most remarkable places to stay

In Wellington, there are boutique properties filled with contemporary art or exuding mid-century chic, often serving up top-notch Kiwi cuisine. In Christchurch, choose from family-run B&Bs with sunny outdoor patios or chic boutique hotels with heritage features in the city centre. But it’s in the more remote reaches of the country that you’ll find the most remarkable places to stay. Spectacular lodges are hidden throughout New Zealand’s most beautiful natural areas: a sustainable treehouse in the branches of a manuka grove near the whale-watching hub of Kaikoura; a minimalist steel-and-glass lodge overlooking the Bay of Islands; or maybe a collection of ultra-luxe safari chalets in the Southern Alps, accessible only by helicopter.

Thankfully, for those on smaller budgets, New Zealand has plenty of small holiday homes known as “baches” (short for bachelor pads) to rent. Campervanning and camping are also extremely popular options. There are well-appointed campsites in beautiful locations, and generous wild camping laws mean it’s possible to set up camp for free in many public spaces across the country.

Don’t miss

New Zealand has more than 9,000 miles of coastline and is blessed with so many pristine seaside spots it’s possible to find an entire beach for yourself. For a unique experience, try Hot Water Beach on the Coromandel Peninsula. Here, as the name suggests, hot underwater springs emerge, allowing beachgoers an unimaginable luxury: to dig a hole in the sand and soak in a warm pool by the sea.

There are endless opportunities for wine-tasting as New Zealand’s wine country is vast, stretching from the top of the North Island to the world’s southernmost grape-growing region in Central Otago. The largest of the regions — and arguably the most scenic — is Marlborough on the South Island, renowned for its sauvignon blanc. Head there to enjoy wonderful local wines and views over vine-ribbed hills that slope down to the gleaming waters of the Marlborough Sound.

There are thousands of glaciers up and down the country, but two of the largest and most accessible are on the west coast of the South Island — Fox and Franz Josef glaciers. You can hike around their bases or take a spectacular ride on a helicopter to remote and pristine parts, where you can fix crampons to your boots and explore breathtaking blue caves and crevasses.

Finally, at Aoraki/Mount Cook in the Christchurch Canterbury region, you can see not only beautiful alpine country by day, but also an extraordinary celestial display by night. This is part of a designated International Dark Sky Reserve, so be sure to pack your binoculars and make the most of this extraordinary view of the stars.

Best time to visit

New Zealand is at its best during the summer months between December and February, but for fewer crowds and lower prices, consider a visit in the autumn (March to May), or spring (September to November), when the countryside is carpeted in wildflowers and when hikers will enjoy the most temperate climate. If it’s whale-watching you’re after, try June and July, when pods of humpbacks, southern right whales, pilot whales and blue whales travel up the eastern coast as part of their annual migration.

FAQs

How much should you budget for a trip to New Zealand?
To make the very best of what’s on offer when travelling in New Zealand, you’ll need a generous budget — for instance, adventure activities such as heli-hiking on a glacier cost from around NZD475 (£240), and the most luxurious lodges are upwards of £1,000 per night. Still, it is certainly possible to have a budget-conscious trip, with wild-camping options, low-cost hikes and plentiful public beaches allowing world-class experiences that won’t break the bank.

What’s the most beautiful city in New Zealand?
New Zealand has several notable cities, all worth visiting for different reasons. Auckland is by far the largest, with a sparkling harbourfront and soaring skyline pierced by the Sky Tower, and it’s an ideal launching pad for adventures on the North Island. Not to be outdone, Wellington is positioned against dramatically steep hills around a windblown bay, and is home to the country’s remarkable national museum, Te Papa. Meanwhile, the “Garden City” of Christchurch in the South Island has bounced back since the destruction of the 2011 earthquake to become a fascinating centre of public art.

How many days do you need to visit New Zealand?
While it is possible to explore parts of the country in a few days, allow at least two weeks if you can. Driving times can be considerable, especially on the South Island where there are fewer roads and large expanses of mountain and wild forest to be detoured around. Allow at least an extra fortnight on top of that if you’re a rugby fan; this is one topic your average Kiwi will never tire of discussing.

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