Uzbekistan travel guide

When to go, what to do, and why you'll love it

Why you'll love it

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Situated at a major crossroads on the Silk Road, Uzbekistan over-indexes in culture, heritage and history. It holds a spellbinding array of architecture and ancient sites in cities such as Khiva, Samarkand and Bukhara, which were among the world’s busiest and most important trading centres for millennia. Uzbekistan’s glittering, tiled madrasas, towering minarets and sky-blue domes comprise some of the most recognisable and beautiful Islamic architecture in the world.

But ancient sites aren’t the only reason to come. One of the most interesting aspects of visiting Uzbekistan is exploring the more recent Soviet history and the striking examples of Brutalist architecture, such as the Hotel Uzbekistan in the capital Tashkent. There are burgeoning and unexpected contemporary art and music scenes and vast, varied Uzbek landscapes. Expect tremendously underrated nature and outdoor sports, whether hiking in the lush Fergana Valley, skiing in the Tien Shan mountains or sleeping under the stars at a desert yurt camp.

The welcome is warm in Uzbekistan — you’ll never go hungry with heaping bowls of plov (rice pilaf) and endless cups of tea or locally made wine at every turn. Often the most memorable experiences come in learning to cook, paint or embroider in the home of a master artisan. Uzbekistan has opened its doors to the world in recent decades, simplifying its visa processes, doing away with bureaucratic requirements and upgrading domestic transport with zippy high-speed trains, making it an easy country to travel around.

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When is the best time to visit Uzbekistan?
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What to do

Uzbekistan’s biggest drawcard is its Silk Road architecture, which is spread around the main cities, with the best in Samarkand. The famed Registan — a Silk Road market square — is bounded on three sides by intricately tiled madrasas (Islamic schools) whose blue and gold tiles glimmer at dawn and dusk.

The entire old city of Khiva is a Unesco world heritage site and in Bukhara you can browse ancient trading bazaars for handmade carpets and iconic suzani textiles or a fun Uzbek-style doppa hat. Bukhara’s most visible landmark is the Kalon Minaret — so tall and impressive that Chinggis (Genghis) Khan decided not to destroy it during his rampage across Central Asia in the 13th century.

The State Museum of Applied Arts in Tashkent — located in a former Russian ambassador’s residence with exquisite plasterwork and colourful tiling — is the best starting point for everything from ceramics and miniature paintings to musical instruments. Also in Tashkent, Chorsu Bazaar is a great place to watch bakers at work making Central Asian bread in traditional ovens or meander rows of stalls piled high with melons, vegetables, nuts and spices.

The remains of thousands of ancient forts linger in the desert

Uzbek food is also a delight — all manner of special fruits and veg are grown in the verdant Fergana Valley and traditional dishes include laghman (noodles), savoury samsa (filled pastries) and the national dish, plov, which comes in a different variety in every region of the country. The Central Asian Plov Center in Tashkent gives a great introduction to how this dish is made, with plenty of opportunities to sample.

Take a deeper dive into history with remarkable archaeological sites at Termez in the south and in the far west in Karakalpakstan. Here the remains of thousands of ancient forts linger in the desert, while the excellent Savitsky Museum in Nukus holds the world’s second-largest trove of art from the Soviet Union. Once you’re this far west, make the final trek to the languishing Aral Sea — now almost entirely dried up due to decades of irrigation.

If you’re short on time, make a triangular journey by train from Tashkent to Samarkand, Bukhara and back. With more time, add a night or two in Navoi and head south to Termez or far west to Karakalpakstan for Khiva and the Aral Sea.

Where to stay

Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva are all well set up for visitors with a range of accommodation, from business hotels to guesthouses and budget, Soviet-style bolt holes. There are an increasing number of international, luxury, chain hotels, particularly in Tashkent, while Bukhara and Khiva both have an excellent selection of boutique, family-owned inns located in characterful, old-town residences.

Don’t be afraid to get out of the cities for a yurt stay — many yurt camps are closer to glamping, with luxury yurts that sleep several people in real beds and have shared shower blocks. A stay usually includes a nomad-style dinner, drinks, sunset-watching and a bonfire with folk music and stargazing.

Mountain treks, long hikes and camping can all be arranged easily from Tashkent, and mountain resorts like Amirsoy offer luxe accommodation for snow sports.

Don't miss

The Aral Sea is considered an environmental disaster without parallel. Once the fourth-largest freshwater lake in the world, stretching into Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, today it has shrunk to a fraction of its original size — all but gone. The disaster was caused by poor Soviet planning that saw much of the water irrigated away over several decades, leaving behind a toxic wasteland of sludge and dust. In the town of Moynaq, you can walk along the former shoreline to the Ship Graveyard, a collection of rusted-out fishing vessels.

Work is ongoing by both Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan to try to protect the landscape, restore the habitats and even reverse the damage. And while it is remote, visiting this area brings much-needed income to a community that has been devastated by a loss of fishing and tourism livelihoods.

The best time to visit is for the Stihia Festival held in May. The festival’s founder wanted to create awareness of the Aral Sea disaster and to raise funds to support environmental restoration in the region. Part electronic gig, part science fest, Stihia is an environmental rave held in the former lakebed at the Ship Graveyard in Moynaq. There are DJ sets, science lectures, workshops and opportunities to engage with and support the tormented Aral landscape and its people.

Best time to visit

March to June for the best weather and Navrus (Persian New Year) celebrations; September to visit bazaars overflowing with fruit and veg; December to February for winter sports.

FAQs

Is Uzbekistan safe?
Uzbekistan is politically stable and generally very safe for travellers. Pickpockets operate in bazaars and you should avoid public demonstrations or rallies. Land borders are prone to closure at short notice, and travellers should use caution at border crossings and borders with Afghanistan, where land mines may be present. Male homosexuality remains illegal, but LGBTQ+ travellers using discretion rarely have trouble.

How to travel around Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan’s high-speed rail system connects Tashkent with Samarkand and Bukhara. It is safe, clean and efficient. Slower trains connect the rest of the country. The fastest way to reach the far west, including Khiva, is a domestic flight. Hiring a car and driver is the best way to get to remote locations like yurt camps and mountainous areas. The gorgeous Tashkent metro, with its Soviet design, is an attraction in itself.

What should I know about before I go?
British passport-holders can enter Uzbekistan for 30 days without a visa. Russian and Uzbek are the most commonly spoken languages; you may meet English speakers in bigger cities, too. Uzbekistan is a secular country; most people wear western-style clothing and alcohol is widely available. Because of its religious heritage, at some sights and areas, like mosques and pilgrimage sites, shoes are removed or women may need to wear a head covering. ATMs aren’t always reliable, so bring some dollars or euros in cash to exchange.

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Inspired to visit Uzbekistan but yet to book your trip? Here are the best hotels from Expedia* and Kayak*.