China travel guide

What to do, where to stay and why you'll love it

Why you’ll love it

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A country of more than 1.4 billion people and that covers an area the size of Europe, China has been a global superpower for so long that it refers to itself as the Middle Kingdom. The majority of the country’s population live along the east coast, and its main cities, such as Shanghai and Beijing, are among the biggest in the world.

At its best, China gives you a view into an entirely different, often surreal world, where ancient Taoist temples stand next to statues of Chairman Mao. It’s all about coasting through megacities full of high-rises, getting lost in labyrinthine markets filled with quirks, watching groups of retirees practising t’ai chi in town squares, and having quickfire exchanges with market hawkers as you barter over a bowl of dumplings. 

However, while Western visitors are generally free from the political restraints imposed by the communist government, this is a one-party state that has faced widespread criticism for its human rights record and its approach to civil liberties. 

Above all, visitors are likely to find themselves in something of an information vacuum, with social media banned and the internet heavily censored by the “Great Firewall of China”. This lack of information can make travelling in China complicated, a situation compounded by the fact that English is not widely spoken. 

Despite (or maybe because of) all this, visiting China can be a highly rewarding experience, especially for the adventurous traveller.

Main photo: The temple on Wanfo Peak, Sichuan province (Alamy)

It’s a world that’s surreal wherever you look

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What to do

As the current iteration of a vast and ancient civilisation, the People’s Republic of China is home to some of the genuine wonders of the world. From the Great Wall to the Terracotta Army* in Xi’an, the country is home to historical marvels that should not be missed. If nothing else, these ancient wonders offer a way of understanding China’s long and complex history, which is often overlooked in the West. 

Many visitors will start in Beijing, the capital. One must-see sight is Tiananmen Square*, home to the Forbidden City and Mao’s mausoleum, where visitors are able to see the late Communist leader’s embalmed body. However, it has a darker history too: this huge square was the setting for the 1989 massacre, when troops and tanks opened fire on pro-democracy protesters, killing at least 300. 

Perhaps the best way to understand China’s modern history is by visiting cities such as Shenzhen and Guangzhou*, which have developed rapidly from fishing villages into sprawling international metropolises over the past 50 years.

Make sure to drink tea with locals and try out the country’s infamous “fly cafés”  — essentially the equivalent of greasy spoons — where a large meal will set you back no more than a couple of pounds. Of course, it’s not all about the cities; try to get out to see the villages, many of which are in stunning locations . For unrivalled beauty, visit the karst mountains in the country’s south and take a guided tour. China’s section of the Himalayas is also well worth exploring.

Where to stay

At the top end of the market, high-quality hotels are to be found in all major cities, the best offering unfettered luxury and exquisite dining. Small hotels and guesthouses often allow for a more authentic Chinese experience, while mid-market accommodation generally offers a good level of comfort at affordable prices, and can be found throughout the country. If you’re heading out of the cities (and you should) it is worth trying one of the small, family-run home stays that can be found in rural villages, many of which provide a glimpse of a traditional way of life that has remained relatively unchanged for hundreds of years.

Don’t miss

Four hours to the south of Beijing by high-speed train — on the way down the coast to Shanghai — sits the coastal province of Shandong*, a strange and beautiful land that has often been referred to as the cradle of Chinese civilisation, due to it being the home of the country’s three major philosophies, Taoism, Confucianism and Chinese Buddhism. As China’s spiritual heartland, Shandong is layered in history, and there are an array of mystical sites, including two Taoist holy mountains — Laoshan and Mount Tai — and Qufu, Confucius’s own hometown. These sites have become increasingly popular with Chinese tourists in recent years, but remain largely unexplored by westerners.

Also in Shandong is the colourful port city of Qingdao*, a former German colony, which is most famous for its distinctly Bavarian-style architecture, and for being the home of Tsingtao beer. Having been founded by German settlers in the latter half of the 19th century, only to be taken by the Japanese in the First World War, Qingdao offers a strange and unique combination of eastern and western influences, that give it all the distinct charm of provincial China along with all the sophistication of Shanghai.

Today, Qingdao is best known for its abundant seafood and excellent bars. The city also has relaxed, sandy beaches, offering the perfect retreat from its urban sprawl. For a chilled day out, stroll along the seafront to the last home of former Chinese president Chiang Kai-shek, before he fled to Taiwan. Set at the heart of Qingdao’s Old Town, looking out onto the water, Chiang’s impressive German-style mansion offers a window into China’s early-20th century past. Afterwards, go for a meal and a beer in one of the old factories that have now been converted into chic restaurants and bars.

When to visit

China is a huge country and the climate can vary dramatically. Beijing has unbearably hot summers and freezing winters, while Shanghai remains warm throughout the year. To avoid extremes, it’s best to visit China in the autumn or spring.

FAQs

What is the best way to travel in China?
China’s high-speed rail network is very efficient and offers comfort at affordable prices.

Is China expensive?
For all of the basics, China is incredibly cheap. Good food can be found everywhere at very tempting prices, while public transport is reliable and cost effective. At the top end, Chinese luxury can be pricey, but day-to-day activities are generally very affordable.

What’s rude in China?
When making a toast, it’s important to always make sure that you’re holding your glass lower than the host. Outshining the host by holding your glass way up in the air is a big faux pas.

Currency
¥ — China’s renminbi (literally the people’s currency) is commonly referred to as either the yuan or kwai.

Take me there

Inspired to visit China but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Expedia* and BA Holidays*. These are the best tours of China from our trusted partners*.