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Wild, raw and bubbling with exuberant personalities, Kenya charms visitors with its bewitching powers, luring them back again and again. Beloved by Brits since the turn of the last century, this is where the African safari was born and it’s still one of the finest places on the continent to observe wildlife. The Big Five can be seen in various protected areas, including the world-class Maasai Mara National Reserve, where the absence of fences allows creatures to continue along millennia-old migration routes.

This is where the African safari was born and it’s still one of the finest places to observe wildlife

More than 40 tribes live in Kenya and many have preserved their ancestral customs and traditional dress. Wrapped in chequered shukas, Maasai pastoralists spend days herding their cattle. In the north, Samburu warriors wear headdresses adorned with a mohican of plastic flowers and women have kaleidoscopic beaded bibs around their necks.

Learning to live alongside wildlife, these communities have helped create a blueprint for conservation across Africa, leasing land to tourist lodges and starting their own projects to protect nature. As a result this is one of the most sustainable places to travel in the world.

If that’s not compelling enough a reason to visit, how about the scenery? The Great Rift Valley slices through the country, spilling into undulating grasslands. In a country of extremes, glaciers and alpine forests cling to the slopes of Mount Kenya, while dunes fringe Lake Turkana, an archaeological hotbed and cradle of humankind.

At times overwhelming, Kenya is also a place for relaxation. “Pole” (meaning slowly in Swahili) is a mantra on the coast, where white sands are lapped by the Indian Ocean and everything steps down a gear. It is the perfect end to a holiday and the start of a lifelong addiction to east Africa that’s hard to shake.

Main photo: a white rhino awaits a rain storm on the shores of Lake Navasha (Getty Images)

Kenya’s flagship attraction is the great migration, when several million wildebeest and an entourage of zebras descend on the Maasai Mara, seeking fresh grass before returning to Tanzania’s Serengeti. From July to October the plains are painted black with nomadic gnus, but the real spectacle is the river crossings. It can take several hours for these indecisive antelopes to make their move, eventually thundering across the water as predatory crocodiles snap their jaws and ambushing lions lie in wait.

But there are plenty of other options for safaris in Kenya*. Amboseli National Park* is excellent for viewing elephants and Tsavo is home to some of Africa’s few remaining big tuskers, while Meru is less busy than other parks.

Ol Pejeta conservancy provides a sanctuary for the last two northern white rhinos in the world

Further north, Laikipia is the best place to see black and white rhinos. The Lewa, Borana and Ol Pejeta* conservancies are conservation success stories; the latter providing a sanctuary for the last two northern white rhinos in the world.

Not all travellers to Kenya focus on wildlife. The semi-arid region of Samburu is home to one of the country’s most fascinating indigenous groups. Living in simple mud-built manyattas, nomadic communities follow the rains seeking pasture for their livestock and many welcome tourists curious to learn about their way of life.

Hiking is also popular in the forests and mountains of the Aberdare Range* and Mount Kenya National Park. Specialist tour operators can arrange five or six-day expeditions to climb Mount Kenya*, the second highest peak in Africa. End a trip at the coast, where resorts are clustered around a few main areas: Watamu Marine National Park is ideal for diving and whale watching; Lamu is famous for its exotic Swahili culture and car-free sandy streets; Diani is renowned for its sparkling white sands.

Anyone planning to visit Kenya will need to overnight in Nairobi due to international flight timings. Safer than in the past, the capital has vibrant fashion, arts and restaurant scenes mainly based around the leafy Karen district*, where there’s a mixture of mid-range to upmarket hotels including colonial-style manors and trendy high-rises. Choose a property close to Wilson airport for early domestic flights.

First-timers to the Maasai Mara will head to the National Reserve, where luxurious tented camps* are based around the central Talek area. Choose the Mara Triangle, below the Oloololo Escarpment, for a quieter option, although mobile camps pop up here during the wildebeest migration. For a more exclusive experience, consider the surrounding community-owned conservancies, where limits are set on the number of vehicles at sightings and walking safaris are permitted.

Samburu is a good base for wildlife immersion, staying in elaborate camps or below nostalgic canvas roofs

Anyone craving four solid walls should head north. In Borana conservancy, high-end country homes and elaborate villas are available for exclusive use. Samburu, meanwhile, is a good base for wildlife and cultural immersion, staying in elaborate camps or below nostalgic canvas roofs.

Accommodation along the coast is much cheaper, especially in Lamu, where open-air private villas come with a resident chef. Apartments and villas trickle from Watamu* down to Diani, intermingled with rustic beach huts and glossy hotels.

Anyone interested in Maasai culture should visit Shompole in the Kajiado district, south of Nairobi, on the border with Tanzania. One of the few remaining areas of communal land, the semi-arid, fence-free region forms a vital corridor for animals moving between the Mara and Amboseli National Park.

Although a popular weekend break for expats living in Nairobi, few tourists come here. A handful of lodges operate in Shompole Conservancy, with activities including game drives to see desert-adapted lions and caracals, days spent herding cattle with Masai warriors, and helicopter trips to watch millions of flamingos gather on the caustic, colourful flats of neighbouring Lake Natron.

July to October for the wildebeest migration*, but if you want to dive or snorkel on the coast aim for October to March.

What should you wear (and not wear) in Kenya?
There’s no strict dress code in liberal Kenya. However, a few items are essential for comfort. Hats, sunglasses and a long-sleeved shirt are recommended for sun-scorched safaris in open vehicles. Neutral colours are best — especially if you’re planning a walking safari. Remember to pack a jumper and woolly hat for chilly early-morning drives; temperatures quickly drop at high altitudes.

Is Kenya a safe country?
In general, yes. Tourist areas have a good police presence and strict security checks operate in Nairobi. There have been several terrorist attacks in the past and Al Shabaab extremists continue to be a threat, especially in the far north, where it is advisable to fly rather than travel by road. Rumblings of tribal conflict occasionally occur in the Laikipia region, especially during periods of drought.

How many days do I need to see Kenya?
Ten days is enough to sample a couple of the county’s wilderness areas followed by a few days of relaxation at the beach. Combine three to four nights in the Mara with a trip to the tribal lands of Samburu for a good balance of culture and wildlife. For an in-depth journey around the country, allow two to three weeks — especially if you plan to travel by road.

Currency
Kenya shilling/KSh

Take me there

Inspired to visit Kenya but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from British Airways* and Expedia*.

• Discover holiday packages to Nairobi*
• Discover holiday packages to Maasai Mara*
• Discover holiday packages to Lamu*
• Discover tours in Kenya*