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No wonder they call it the Eternal City. It’s nearly 2,800 years since Rome was (allegedly) founded and — barring a couple of hiccups in the Middle Ages — it’s been going strong ever since. The result is a giant layer cake of art, faith and history: and if you’ve even a passing interest in humanity’s developing story, and the triumphs and disasters we’ve encountered en route, you’ll be buzzing from start to finish. On any given day here, you might stare into the stern face of a Republican matriarch, preserved in marble for two millennia; gaze at 500-year-old paintings which are still the finest frescoes in the world; and finish with a plate of black truffle carbonara, and a rich, fruity glass of Montepulciano red — in a moment that’s all about the here and now. It’s an intoxicating mix.

Main photo: Basilica of SS Ambrose and Charles, Rome (Getty Images)

There are two hard and fast rules. Don’t try to do everything in Rome in a single trip; and don’t restrict yourself to Rome’s Holy Trinity: the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Vatican Museums. Yes, they’re justifiably famous, but in the peak season (between Easter and early autumn), they can be mind-bogglingly busy too. Go when everybody else does — in the morning and early afternoon — and you’ll spend your entire holiday looking at the back of other people’s heads.

Because most visitors have the same tick-list, Rome’s ‘secrets’ are more or less empty

To avoid the crush, book a visit with a private guide, from an outfit such as Eyes of Rome. They can, for example, get you into the Vatican Museum* 90 minutes before the public. Or go at the end of the day, about an hour before the last tickets are sold — when everyone’s footsore and hungry and thinking about supper. At that point, the crowds suddenly thin. Once you’re in, stay there until you’re actually asked to leave. For a few deliciously tranquil minutes you may end up having somewhere like the Sistine Chapel to yourself.

Then, in the meantime, work the B-list. Rome’s lesser-known sights would be the stars of any other city, and because most visitors have the same tick-list, these “secrets” are more or less empty. They’re often just a few steps away from the main attractions too. Take Trajan’s Market*, for example; it’s across the road from the Forum — but rendered almost invisible by a cloak of dark, utilitarian brick. Inside, you’ll discover one of Rome’s most complete Imperial monuments: a vast complex of offices and auditoria, built between 100 and 110AD to service Trajan’s new forum. Chances are, you’ll have its ancient pavements to yourself.

The last decade has seen a host of new hotels and B&Bs opening across the city, and there are properties to suit every budget — from glittering five-star Rome palaces to friendly hostels. One particularly enticing option is to stay in the private apartments of one of Italy’s noble families, such as the Ruspoli* — in whose palazzo the future Napoleon III lived in 1830.

Whatever the price range, you’ll need to book ahead: but if you do, there’s no need to stray beyond the city centre

Whatever the price range, you’ll need to book ahead: but if you do, there’s no need to stray beyond the city centre — an area bounded by the Piazza dei Populo in the north, the Termini railway station in the east, Trastevere in the west, and the Colosseum in the south. Only those on the tightest budgets need look further afield: and it needn’t be far. Just north of the Termini station, for example, lies the chatty, relaxed and long-established Beehive hostel* — complete with its own garden, as well as dorms, private rooms and a vegetarian restaurant.

Bear in mind, however, that within the city centre, Rome hotels tend to come in clusters. Many of the grandest five-stars, such as the Eden*, Hassler* and de Russie*, are concentrated on the southern edge of the Villa Borghese gardens. Often, they offer stellar views across the city, as well as quick access to the Galleria Borghese in the park: but it’s a long walk from this part of town to the Forum and the Palatine Hill, especially in the heat of summer.

Staying right in the middle of town, in the narrow, tightly packed streets between the Tiber and the Colonna shopping district is more convenient — not to mention exciting. Meanwhile, those who want to keep the tourist hubbub at arm’s length should target Monti, between the Colosseum and the Termini station, which is peppered with atmospheric bars and restaurants. Here, the hip, vintage-flavoured Fifteen Keys* is the standout property.

Rome is a bustling capital city as well as an open museum: and it’s when you’re eating and drinking that you’ll get the best sense of its modern buzz.

The good news is you don’t have to wander far to find it. Yes, the district of Monti, which climbs the Esquilino and Quirinale hills, is the spiritual home of the cute neighbourhood restaurant. Here, you’ll find tiny one and two-room joints run almost like supper clubs, where fresh, seasonal pasta costs €15 a plate. But even in the streets around the Pantheon and Piazza Navona you can expect some serious gastronomic venues between the tourist traps; just do a little research beforehand — and reserve a table before your visit. Meanwhile, just west of here, around the Via dei Bianchi Vecchi, lies an unexpected oasis of calm and quality: with Il Goccetto wine bar and the Michelin-starred Per Me restaurant among the standout venues.

Two millennia on, it’s sculpture that offers the most vivid link with Ancient Rome — and the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme* is the place to see it. Here, clear, intelligent displays chart the transformation from unflinching Republican realism to the flattery of Empire, and every stylistic shift is illustrated with work of staggering virtuosity. Some of the warts-and-all portraits of the 1st century BC are so lifelike you can almost feel the warmth radiating from the subject’s skin.

By rights, a museum this good should be packed: but it’s at the unfashionable end of the city centre, near the Termini railway station. Come at lunchtime and you’ll very nearly get a private view — even in high summer.

Central Rome looks small enough on the map. But you’ll pound your feet to pulp trying to walk it all. So make one of the city’s Tourist Infopoints your first stop on arrival — and pick up a 48- or 72-hour Roma Pass. Alongside free and discounted entry to many museums, they offer unlimited use of public transportation.

For longer hops, the metro is quick and easy, but the city centre is short on stations, and it’s the buses that will make the biggest difference to your stay. Use the directions function on your smartphone’s map app to tell you which buses to catch, and hold your bag/rucksack in front of you, where you can see it, just as you would in any big city. Rome is no riskier these days than London: but bag snatchers and pickpockets still work the streets. Leave jewellery and look-at-me watches at home, and keep your wallet and phone in a front-facing zipped or button-down pocket.

Take me there

Inspired to visit Rome but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from British Airways* and Tui*.